Just Because

Surfing to me is one of the best things in my life at the moment. I surf because of the feeling you get when you are on that wave, that one wave that makes everything seem so unreal. I love how when you surf its just you and the wave, nothing else matters, no distraction from the outside world, just you and the wave. When I surf I think of nothing else but the joy and freedom of riding that one wave. It only takes one good wave to get hooked and thankfully I have had plenty of those waves.

I have been surfing since I was basically born and one of my first earliest memories is standing on a wave with my dad when I was almost 2. Though as a young grommet I only really surfed because that’s what everyone did. I have surfed on and off throughout my whole life but I only really got into surfing just under a year ago, before we moved to Bali. And now… now I surf for me, not because other people want me to, not because everyone else does, I just do it for me.

It’s an addiction, a lifestyle and the best part is its pretty much natural. The ocean is another reason why I surf. Having grown up on the beach I was always in the ocean. Its so free, so relaxed so calming... I don’t know if any of you get like this but when I spend more the a few days without seeing or being in touch with the ocean, I crave it. Nothing matters in the ocean; it just is what it is.

I surf because every wave is different and unique in its own way. No one wave is ever the same, unlike other sports like running around an oval or the same for a racing track. Basically I just surf there is no better feeling.